Thirty years of artistic mastery come together in the solo exhibition ‘Presence in Process – 30 Years of Art and Craft at Studio Claudy Jongstra’ at the Cuypershuis in Roermond. Never-before-seen studies, small experimental works and unique pieces from Jongstra’s archive remain an important source of inspiration for the internationally renowned artist and activist. Graduation pieces, the iconic dress for Viktor & Rolf, joint projects with artist Marc Mulders and LOADS Collection, monumental tapestries and new work created especially for this exhibition together provide a layered and multifaceted picture of her oeuvre.
In the former art studios of designer and architect Pierre Cuypers in the Cuypershuis in Roermond, the city where her roots lie, Claudy Jongstra reveals her mission, choices and the development of her work. The emphasis is on previously unseen material tests and experiments, colour charts and sketches. Research into centuries-old textile techniques such as ajour and guipure, as well as the use of natural materials and pigments and experiments with tactility and texture, reflect her ongoing quest.
Jongstra’s curiosity about the many possibilities of wool as a material, innovative techniques and natural colours come together in her creative vision. Each phase of research leads to a new artistic development and a deepening of her work. The steps Jongstra takes during this journey and the surprising detours she takes result in internationally acclaimed, impressive wool felt artworks and installations. Two highlights from her versatile oeuvre, ‘Guernica de la Ecología’ and ‘Tangible Transformation I’, will be on display at the Cuypershuis.
Flourishing sustainable textile art
A love of textiles – particularly a passion for wool – is the common thread running through Claudy Jongstra’s work. Roermond was once a thriving textile town, where the use of wool and the cultivation of woad flourished. Pierre Cuypers manufactured textiles for ecclesiastical use, Claudy Jongstra began her career with theatre costumes, and recently she and her son Jesk set up LOADS Collection. A label for biodynamic fashion and interior textiles as a critical response to today’s fast fashion industry.
The power and beauty of nature form the foundation of Jongstra’s work. From her biodynamic farm and studio in Friesland, she works in complete harmony with her surroundings. The artist uses wool from Drenthe heath sheep and applies centuries-old techniques such as felting, carding, spinning and weaving. Thanks to years of research and experimentation, the artist has been able to translate these techniques into contemporary applications in her sustainable artworks. She also focuses on the (re)discovery and development of historical dye recipes using plants such as woad, madder and madder, with which she creates her iconic colour palette. The dye plants come from her own botanical garden, where her partner Claudia Busson uses her experience and expertise to cultivate these centuries-old crops. Collaboration within the local community is central to this, both in the studio, on the farm, and in collaboration with biodynamic farmers abroad. In this way, Claudy Jongstra renews centuries-old craftsmanship and techniques and shows how art and ecology are inextricably linked.
Jongstra’s activist message is deeply interwoven in her artworks. Guernica de la Ecología warns of the loss of biodiversity and, with it, colour from our world, while the Tangible Transformations series depicts a hopeful future in which vibrant hues testify to a more loving relationship with our planet.
Reviving knowledge and craftsmanship
The fact that Presence in Process is on display in Pierre Cuypers’ former art workshops is not without significance. There are clear parallels between the way Cuypers, as an architect, materials researcher, designer and artist, reintroduced old crafts and techniques and encouraged collaboration with craftspeople, and the principles underlying Claudy Jongstra’s working methods and mission. She breathes new life into almost lost crafts in a contemporary way and is committed to preserving and passing on knowledge. Just as in Cuypers’ studios back then, Studio Claudy Jongstra works closely with knowledge and educational institutions, as well as with artists, farmers, scientists and gardeners.
Both share a sustainable vision on a socially relevant issue: an alternative future focused on a better world as an essential part of artistic creation. A garden has been laid out around the exhibition with native dye and medicinal plants, inspired by medieval monastery gardens, and a supplementary programme has been developed with workshops, lectures and debates. In this way, the exhibition has grown into a permanent, vibrant place where art, nature, craftsmanship and community come together and inspire a renewed respectful approach to our earth – a message that is firmly rooted in Jongstra’s mission, oeuvre and working method.
Text: Viveka van de Vliet
Photography: Maartje van Berkel
